Block Fusing

I have had a day off today, courtesy of being able to use my annual leave allowance whenever the hell I like, and the sewing mojo has struck. The shimmery fabric that I bought at Abakhan’s at Easter has been begging to become a summer dress, and who am I to refuse such pleas when the sun is finally shining and I have a wedding to go to next month?

This fabric is beautiful. It washed on 30 degrees and dried practically before it was out of the machine. It’s a gorgeous colour and a gorgeous drape… but a pig to cut out because the grain is practically non-existant and it’s unstable as heck. Not great for the fitted bodice that I’d be envisaging.

But then I realised that I had a solution! I could underline it. Better still, I could effectively underline it with interfacing before cutting, thus preserving the shape of the pieces, stabilising, and de-wrinkling all in one go. I use ‘proper’ interfacing from Gill Arnold. Essentially it’s a fabric in its own right – it has a warp and a weft, and means that the fabric you apply it to remains its drape. It’s not cheap, but the difference between it and the stiff, papery stuff that you buy for 30p/metre from the Rag Market… well there’s just no competition. They’re pretty much different notions altogether.

In classic block fusing, you fuse a whole area of interfacing to a whole wrong side of fabric and then lay your pieces out as normal. In order to preserve as much of my precious cotton fusible as possible, I simply cut out my pattern pieces from the interfacing, fused them onto the spread-out fabric and then cut around the fused shapes.

IMG_6503 (600 x 450)

This will make the everything much easier to sew as well as cut, and because the exposed side of the interfacing feels like a smooth cotton, I reckon I’ll get away without having to line anything either. Win!


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2 thoughts on “Block Fusing

  1. […] time, fabric, and a clear vision in my head I set sail. I talked in my last sewing post about block fusing the bodice pieces, but forget to mention what pattern I was using! […]

  2. […] made two really good decisions. Interfacing the bodice and strap pieces gave them a wonderful supportive structure, resulting in a close and comfortable fit without […]

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